A practical guide to Sifnos

When to visit

The main season runs from late May to late September, when ferries are frequent and most tavernas and rooms are open. July and August are the busiest and hottest months, and also when the meltemi wind is most likely.

June and September are the easier months: the sea is warm, the island is calmer, and rooms are easier to find at short notice. In April, May and October many places are open but the ferry timetable thins out, so check before committing.

Getting to the island

Sifnos has no airport. You arrive by ferry, most often from Piraeus, and the crossing takes roughly two to five hours depending on the vessel. Conventional ferries are slower, cheaper and more comfortable in wind; high-speed ferries are quicker and more likely to be cancelled when it blows.

There are also connections with neighbouring Cyclades, including Milos, Serifos and Kimolos. All boats dock at Kamares, the port on the west coast.

Getting around

The island bus links Kamares, Apollonia and the main beaches, and runs frequently in high season. Apollonia is the hub: most routes pass through it.

A car or scooter makes the north and the quieter coves much easier to reach, and is worth it if you want to move around daily. If you plan to stay in one village and walk or use the bus, you can manage without one.

The old stone footpaths between villages are maintained and well signed. Walking between Apollonia, Artemonas, Kastro and the monasteries is one of the better reasons to come.

What the villages are like

Kamares

The port. Convenient for arriving late or leaving early, with a sandy beach and tavernas along the front.

Apollonia

The capital, inland and central. Best for eating out, evening life and bus connections.

Artemonas

Quieter and more residential than Apollonia, a short walk away, with older mansions and bakeries.

Platis Gialos

The long sandy beach on the south coast. Beach-first, with rooms and tavernas along the sand.

Vathi

A sheltered bay to the south west, calmer than Platis Gialos and good with small children.

Kastro

The medieval settlement on the east coast. Dramatic, atmospheric, and not where you go for a beach.

Faros

Small coves and a short walk to Chrysopigi, the monastery on the headland.

Food

Sifnos has a genuine culinary reputation in Greece, built on clay-pot cooking, chickpea dishes and local cheeses. Sunday chickpea soup baked overnight is the classic example.

Book tables in August, particularly in Apollonia and Kastro. Outside the peak weeks you can usually walk in.